But in 2015, he almost went out of business after a show that opened with a 12-minute video about police brutality titled This Is an Intervention. It featured interviews with the relatives of many of the black men who had been killed by police: Eric Garner, Marlon Brown, Sean Bell. Ten years in, Jean-Raymonds star has only risen. I remember thinking, Wow, maybe this is a sign that were not supposed to do this. I was really scared about what people would say. If others have their own version of it, Im not mad about itas long as theyre keeping the integrity of the smiles.. Also, in 2014, he was a finalist in the DHL Exported Prize presented by IMG Worldwide. This iteration of the choir has particular significance this season given Jean-Raymonds conceptual starting point: He aimed to rewrite the history of rocknroll to properly give due to Sister Rosetta Tharpe, a queer, black virtuoso guitarist and gospel singer from Arkansas who invented the sound that we now associate with rock music. I remember sitting with all of that in front of me, at 24. New York Magazine. This is where we did a majority of the design for the couture collection., Jean-Raymond was known for having a camera crew around, an arrangement some compared to being on a reality-TV-show set. (Widescreen - Exclusive Video/1080p - New York Fashion Week) Backstage afterward, Mr. Jean-Raymond, who is 32, rejected the characterization of himself as a leader and insisted Im not the race guy.. The designer Kerby Jean-Raymond, left, and the artist Gregory Siff backstage. A big question is: What was the impact? Kerby Jean-Raymond is a Haitian American fashion designer who is the founder of the menswear label Pyer Moss. In an email, Anna Wintour praised Kerbys talent and vision, not to mention the way he constantly questioned the fashion system and stressed that fashion has for him been the perfect medium for his restless, questioning mind.. Kerby Jean-Raymond Teams With Kering to Launch Your Friends in New York. Covering him was an opportunity for the fashion press to feel relevant. He was up next. . Three years after his Black Lives Matter show, American, Also celebrated Black leisure. Want more stories like this one? After graduating from Hofstra University with a business degree, Jean-Raymond worked at AT&T, among other places, before deciding to pursue fashion full time and launching his own brand. Jean-Raymond didnt hide his vulnerabilities, often leaving people, even those doing business with him, with the urge to protect him. Pyer Moss premiered its highly anticipated Spring/Summer 2020 show and let me tell youit was well worth waiting a year. Runway Collection 1 A lot of people go in really excited to work with and be involved with a brand that feels like its connected to culture and community and wants to give back, said a former design-team member. In November 2017, Jean-Raymond announced that he had landed an 18-month contract to design Reebok by Pyer Moss. It was about forcing a deeper reckoning at a time when race has become a dividing line in the country, and embracing a different understanding in order to move forward. It was about ownership. Mr. Jean-Raymond isnt trying to change the shape of clothes (hes not Rei Kawakubo, challenging the definition of garment); he is trying to change how we think about clothes and who gets to be a part of making that myth known as American fashion.. The material on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with the prior written permission of Cond Nast. He was willing to sit a season out, as he did last February, because he needed more time to map out his ideas, and because he thinks consumers need time, too, to save money to buy clothes. The 2021 Pyer Moss Met Gala after-party at Juniors in Brooklyn. And he got so combative with me and was like: Im sending them out! Kerby Jean-Raymond, 28 AI Singers Are Unnervingly Good and Already Ubiquitous. Four hundred years have passed since they brought our people to this land . In fact all of his designs feature some sort of dedication to his parents, such as small initials. Others seen in Pyer Moss include producer Swizz Beatz, Kiandra Layne, Gabrielle Union-Wade, Colin Kaepernick and First Lady Michelle Obama. We ended up paying close to $20,000, which was definitely money we didnt have. And once he did, and got through, that set the tone for him understanding the importance and significance of being a black man in America, a black designer, and solidified his voice and all of our purpose. But its a fashion show. . Editors and whomever was coming to the show they would have another opportunity to be at a show, but these people deserved to be honored. He wore a T-shirt that read IF YOU ARE JUST LEARNING ABOUT PYER MOSS, WE FORGIVE YOU during a meeting with Wintour in which he showed her his collection. Fashion houses often use shows as opportunities to display creativity, and not everything from the runway makes it into production, he noted in an email. Pyer Moss means everything to me.. I loved them so much that the next season we used them again, and in everything that I doits just getting bigger and bigger. Calmese, the director, is a major force behind the choirs continued growth. At the end, people wanted to clap, but we shut the lights off and you heard Oscar Grants mom she had sent us audio because she couldnt come and that put everyone back in their seat. Among the fashion insiders who had cheered his rise, there has been a growing feeling that he has wasted an opportunity to build something important. Pyer Moss just launched a platform called "Exist to Resist," which spotlights the important work of social-justice organizations. I was like a little kid in trouble because of what wed just shown everyone. He also was the winner of the . Smaller brands almost always lose money. Have there been any lessons learned? Illustration: Lauren Tamaki. In a post-show interview backstage at Kings Theatre, he said thought he could use fashion to correct the record because I dont care about selling clothes and, in the same breath, that I want to make money. It sounds absurd, but in his world, those two realities can coexist. When Pyer Moss Brought Police Brutality to the Runway Privacy Policy and Jean-Raymond was featured on Cultured Magazine's fashion issue cover in April 2019. At the Pyer Moss spring/summer 2016 catwalk show, he aired a documentary on racially motivated police brutality in the US and later created a t-shirt called 'They Have Names,' which listed victims such as Walter Scott, who was shot in Charleston in 2015 after being pulled over for having a brake light that wasnt working, and Eric Garner, who died after being held in a choke hold during arrest in New York in 2014. All rights reserved. Pyer Moss and the Power of Black Truth - The New York Times He insisted that they stick with the scheduled date. In a historic theater in a part of New York City far from the usual runway haunts, in front of thousands of ravenous fans (including some very famous ones) who stood in lines around the block waiting for admittance, in a room swollen with the voices of a 65-person choir, expectation and glamour, a fashion week force gathered critical mass. Sep 25, 2020. I felt like it was representative of me I felt like it was representative of us.. Artist Gregory Siff spray-painted the garments with BREATHE, BREATHE, BREATHE during the show. The show reportedly cost $400,000 to mount. Its not gonna rain, youre so negative, youre always so negative, a former employee recalls him telling the weather-worriers. Vogue may earn a portion of sales from products that are purchased through our site as part of our Affiliate Partnerships with retailers. So we have 20 minutes of peoples attention, and we can use it as an opportunity. The spring-summer 2016 collection made him a star. The clothing he showed as part of an ongoing collaboration with the sportswear label was his most confident capsule yet, and it included a chunky Pyer Mossified version of the brands classic shoe done in an array of eye-catching colors. I had painted all the boots beforehand: a lot of repetition of I cant breathe, which was Eric Garner. Pyer Moss | Spring Summer 2020 by Kerby Jean-Raymond | Full Fashion Show in High Definition. It'll also be accompanied by a limited release of apparel styles from Pyer Moss . He describes his brand, Pyer Moss, as an "art project" or "a timely social experiment" at times.[14]. If you prefer to read in print, you can also find this article in the January 30, 2023, issue of Theres no shopping function on its website, the last Reebok collection dropped last fall, and the brand is no longer working with its PR company of over five years, the Hinton Group, which had so carefully helped Jean-Raymond build the sort of heroic press most small designers could only dream of. All were coming around to making the same point: Jean-Raymond was doing something interesting. Yesterday at rehearsal, though, we were talking about why we do this, and all of these feelings of resentment dissipated. Kerby Jean-Raymond reflects on 2019 NYFW show. I remember when Puffy won the CFDA Award, said Jean-Raymond, who was working at a sneaker shop just blocks from Kings Theatre at the time. In February 2016, his fall collection put a spotlight on Black mental health with buttons attached to jackets and commander caps that referenced self-medication through drug use: ACID, BOOZE, LSD, MOLLY. We had to scramble and ended up with a venue that was too big and way out of our price range, the Altman Building on 18th Street. 2. Walker in Irvington, New York. Mr. Jean-Raymond has what is starting to look like a signature silhouette zoot suit-shouldered jackets cropped at the waist atop liquid trousers for both men and women but hanging a little piano keyboard at the hem of the jacket flirted with kitsch. The winner of the award gets $400,000 and mentorship from a fashion executive to help them develop as a business. Delivered by writer Casey Gerald, who is known for his incisive social commentary, the sermon that opened the show was both uplifting and unapologetically political. So, for example, this collection, titled Sister, began with the history of Sister Rosetta Tharpe, a queer black woman in the church, according to Mr. Jean-Raymond, who also happened to be the founder of rock n roll though her contributions are often unacknowledged. [1] Kerby Jean-Raymond collaborated with R&B singer and activist Erykah Badu, who styled Jean-Raymond's Pyer Moss AW16 line for the 2016 New York Fashion Week show. Even if the professional critics and other members of the fashion press seemed hesitant to publicly express their disappointment, they whispered among each other that hed lost the plot of his brand. After the movie, people were gasping, some people were crying, some people walked out, and I started to get cold feet about what we were doing. Sean John was on the list of collaborators this season, as well, the last in a trio of black legacy brands Jean-Raymond has worked with for American, Also, including FUBU and Cross Colours. I was prepared for it to be my last show. I remember having multiple conversations sharing who I am, who Kerby is, what the brand stands for and that this wasnt just about death and loss. Gregory Siff, artist who spray-painted the collection live.
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